STEVESAMET.COM

Quarter Cracks

2009-05-22T18:44:00Z

Quarter cracks are longitudinal fissures in the hoof occurring near the heels. They can generally be attributed to improper shoeing, or to overall neglect of the foot. In addition quarter cracks can be caused by allowing the horse to stand on hard floors for extended periods of time; or when the frog, sole and bars have been pared away and the heels weakened. This condition may also be caused by springing the shoe off at the heel and putting the weight of the horse on the wings of the coffin bone. These causes lead to a dry and inflexible hoof, which results in the cracking of the hoof.

In trimming a hoof with a quarter crack, reduce the wall, especially at the heels, as much as the safety of the foot will permit. The next step is to remove the contractile disposition of the hoof by rasping it at the quarters. After this open both sides of the crack with a knife so that friction of the fractured parts cab be avoided. Then rasp or cut out the bottom of the crack so that no part of it will bear upon the shoe. After the wall has been lowered trim the frog if it projects below the bottom of the foot. By doing this the frog will aided in growing wider and assist the foot in expanding. When the cracks occur well back at the heels I sometimes find it necessary to protect the weak parts by applying a bar shoe.

When the crack occurs opposite the wings of the coffin bone, level the foot and shorten the toe as much as can be done conveniently. If cracks happen on both sides, shoe with a three quarter tip. File or rasp the wall on both sides of the crack, from coronet to ground surface as thin as safety will permit. If the foot is sore and tender, apply a high quality foot salve to relieve the stress on the affected area. A new growth of horn may also be stimulated by keeping the hoof moist with cold-water bandages around the coronet. Remove the shoes every three weeks in order to prevent excessive growth of horn. By following these instructions, quarter cracks may easily be cured and the horse regularly worked.

Navicular Disease

2009-05-16T17:15:00Z

The Navicular bone, from its position in the center of the foot, and the important protection it receives from the surrounding surfaces, is seldom visited by disease or injured in an accident. It is protected at either end by the wall and wings and cartilages of the coffin bone, and on its upper face by the lower pastern bone. Underneath, where there is the greatest risk of injury, it is protected by the flexor perforans, the plantar cushion, and the frog.

In this disease the flexor perforans becomes ulcerated where it slides over the under face of the Navicular bone (at times involving the sesamoid sheath in the process). The severe pain experienced by the horse is from its play over the rough, diseased portion of that bone. This disease is sometimes inherited, but once contracted it is incurable. However, a great deal may be done to ease the pain in the animal. I believe that two thirds of Navicular disease is caused by improperly dressing the hoof, cutting the frog away, weakening the bars, and thinning the soles. This is then exacerbated by riding over uneven surfaces, which provokes inflammation of the tissues and membranes of the foot. The effects of Navicular disease is the shrinkage of the outer wall upon the living parts of the foot, immediately below the coronary band, crowding the cartilages in and stopping the circulation. The foot becomes dry, hard, and feverish. The wall becomes thick and deep. The white line across the heel shows where the foot should be reduced around the base. When the disease becomes well established, the horse manifests it by continual restlessness, standing on one foot and holding the other backward, with the heel elevated and the toe touching the ground, or by twisting the toe out and resting the heels of one on the coronet of the other; and by constantly shifting and flexing the fetlock and knee.

Not one third of the cases of navicular disease that I have seen are chronic. Many cases that are wrongly termed navicular disease should be considered only navicular joint lameness, which if allowed to run might become chronic, but are curable if treated in time.
In dressing the foot, proceed as normal, then after properly leveling and balancing the hoof, open up the commissures and pare out the sole within safe limits. If the frog projects above the heel, pare it flat on the ground tread. In most instances the bar shoe can be used with satisfactory results. I often will use a composite shoe in these cases due to their added shock absorption.

After nailing on the shoe stand the horse in soaking tubs of warm water, two hours per day, for a week to ten days. Also place warm water bandages around the coronet band. The shoe should extend as well back from the heel as can be safely worn, and by this method of shoeing, much relief will be afforded the horse. Reset the shoes every two to three weeks to keep down the surplus growth.

Foal Hoof Care

2009-05-02T02:13:00Z

The arrival of a new foal is an exciting time for the horse owner. This is also the opportune time to begin long term hoof care and maintenance on your new addition. At birth you should take the time to give the hooves an examination to check for any abnormalities. I will take this opportunity to slightly shape the new foal’s hooves with a sanding block. For the first four weeks after birth I will check the hooves every other day to check for deformities in the hoof capsule. Any shaping that I do up to this point is done with a sanding blocking a sit is the most gentle of the options available. After the first month I will begin to use my rasp to shape the hoof. During these early days of handling the foal is being taught to willingly give up its feet. By picking up the feet you are also teaching the foal to balance.

After a month I start to look at how the hooves bear weight. If the load is unequal I will address it with corrective trimming. The point is to keep the young hoof symmetrical and balanced. I will not raise, lower, or roll the toe at this young age as this can cause damage to tendons and joints.

As the foal gets older I will continue to trim and check for the hooves alignment tot the bony column for optimum balance. I will make adjustments as needed, such as trimming flared hooves and relieving pressure on the hoof capsule. I try not to make any drastic changes as these can cause long term lameness issues. For example, if a leg is turned out or in I will not attempt to make a fast correction as this can be traumatic to the joints, bone, and tendons. I prefer to work in small steps to make the needed corrections to the hoof.

If all goes well shoeing will begin at the 2 to 2 and a half -year mark. Everything that has been done to this point should lead to a seamless transition to the first shoeing. For the duration of your horse’s life you should strive to keep excellent hoof alignment to the bony column so that your horse can maintain mechanical harmony in his legs and musculature. If you can accomplish this your horse should have minimal lameness issues during his life.

Hoof Care Fundamentals - Part One

2009-04-20T17:51:00Z

Fundamental Principles
It should be accepted as a guiding principle that in a natural healthy foot, the outside rim of the hoof wall and the small portion of the sole directly attached to it where the shoe will rest are the only portions of the hoof to be worked on when preparing the hoof for the shoe. The appropriate trimming should be done with nippers and a rasp. The feet must be trimmed along the same plane.   The cannot be over emphasized, as the smallest deviation from a perfectly level hoof can have severe consequences, not only on the hoof, but also on the entire limb.

Securing the Levels
In the hoof itself, when the weight is borne unevenly, the lowest part of the leg receives an undue share of the load. The pressure of the weight retards the growth and the free movement of the limb. The hoof then becomes weakened, distorted, and deformed.   The limb, deflected as it is by an uneven load, takes the brunt of the pressure. The bones and tendons mutually suffer from the strain. The hoof wall must be made to be perfectly level, that is no more is to be taken from one side than the other. This is determined by exact measurements taken at opposite points all around the hoof from the coronet band to the ground surface, with all having the same degree.

Balance
The hoof must be balanced to mechanical harmony. In other words, from a line drawn through the longer axis of the frog the measurements to opposite points should be the same on both sides of the hoof. This means that a longitudinal line through the center of the frog must at all points be the center of the foot or divide it into exact halves. In this way only will the force of the footfall be carried through the bony column and be equally and naturally distributed upon the supporting apparatus of the horse’s bones and tendons and the weight bearing portions of the hoof.

Preparing the Hoof
In leveling and balancing the hoof, my practice is to remove only the portions of the hoof that is naturally about to be cast off. That is, those portions of the hoof that are exfoliating and devoid of the natural moisture and flexibility that exist in healthy growth. I trim the hoof wall to a level with the untouched healthy sole. I aim to have every part of the wall, from the angle of the heels to the toe, receive a broad equal bearing on the shoe, unless there is some special reason for doing otherwise. With some feet, having a strong healthy growth, this means a good deal of trimming, especially if the shoes have been on for some time. On the other hand, there are feet that require very little trimming; therefore the work must be done with constant and intelligent reference to the inclination of the pasterns.   Sometimes the hoof will grow all to the toe, other times the growth will be located more toward the heel. Or the hoof may be run over by having one side too high or the toe worn off excessively. To rectify this, and to better the adjustment, a good idea is to look at the old shoe and see where it has been worn most and be partly guided by this. The overall point is to remove the surplus growth from the hoof wall, or as much as it takes to bring the hoof back to its natural shape and alignment. All of this must depend upon the judgment, expertise, and ingenuity of the farrier on the job. The farrier should never lose sight of the fact that if the heels are allowed to grow too high, an excessive strain is put on the skeletal structure of the legs. If the toes are too long the tendons suffer in a like manner. The sharp lower rim of the hoof wall should be rounded off, and all stubs or nails should be removed.

Interviewed by Horse Owner TV

2008-09-11T21:52:12Z

Horse Owner TV Interview. To join HorseOwnerTV.com's podcast check here... Horse Owner TV Podcast.

Proper Shoeing Procedure for an Arabian Hunter

2008-08-27T23:52:00Z

Steve Samet with Daniel Montoya

Proper shoeing for show horses is becoming a lost art. This procedure is for an Arabian hunter that is going back into training prior to a show. Dramatic front end action is required in the Arab arena and specialized shoeing is required to assist in getting this action.

After the feet are trimmed and balanced back into mechanical harmony, the shoes are custom shaped. In this instance the shoes will be shaped with bold and rolled toes in the front; leather pads will also be fitted to add to the desired front end action of the horse. The shoe will be shaped with extended heels in the back, inside splats, and side roll.

The bold toe allows for effortless break-over in the front. The combination of the bold and rolled toe relieves sole pressure. The extended heel relieves the overall pressure to the foot and spreads the foot out. In addition the extended heel helps the flight pattern remain straight and true with little effort. The side roll also assists in aiding break-over. The splats make the shoe wider at the heel for added support.

After the shoes are heated and shaped at the anvil, the edges are rolled with a grinder to the desired 45 degree angles. After shaping, the shoes should have equal measurements in width and length; in other words the shoe should be as long as it is wide.

At this stage a leather pad is brass tacked to each of the front shoes and then cut flush to the leading edge of the shoe. The pads add more weight to the shoe for more lift and less sink. They also aid in shock absorption. When the shoes are applied they are sealed by applying Forshner's Hoof Packing to the frog. This is preferred to using pine tar or oakum. With pads the idea is to start low with the first shoeing and gradually build height in subsequent shoeings. Of course this is done after proper evaluation of the horse based on muscle structure and confirmation to ensure the proper height for optimum movement in the show arena.

After building and applying these shoes you will find that the horse dramatically develops the inside gaskin muscle in the rear and also builds a high degree of muscle development in the chest and forearm in the front.

We welcome all comments to this posting.

Capping the Hoof with Acrylic Hoof Clear

2008-07-21T19:27:00Z

Steve Samet with Daniel Montoya

The main purpose of capping the hoof with Acrylic Hoof Clear is so that the hoofcapsule will hold its shape after trimming. Capping the hoof also assists in aiding dry hoof tubulars byholding moisture in the hoof. Onthe other hand capping the hoof also can aid in keeping moisture away from thehoof by acting as a shield against the elements. This procedure may be performed by a veterinarian, farrier,or horse owner, and should be used as part of a hoof maintenance program incertain situations.

Cappingthe hoof with Acrylic Hoof Clear will greatly facilitate correction in thesefollowing areas: dry feet, weak hoof walls, stabilizing pasture feet, hoofcracks in brood mares, bruising of the hoof wall, foals after trimming to holdthe shape of the hoof, nail hole filling, and keeping out excess moisture.

Thefirst thing that I do in this procedure is to balance the hoof back intomechanical harmony through corrective trimming. Obviously the amount of trimming will depend on the level ofcorrection needed. Next I willglue on a composite shoe, or I may choose to leave the hoof unshod depending onwhat I am trying to achieve with the particular horse. I then pour the Acrylic Hoof Clear intothe hoof. This product dries in 60seconds in the sunlight, or in 2-3 minutes in the shade. It is very easy to work with. When the acrylic is tacky I finish thehoof by wiping with a damp rag and that’s that.

Cappingthe hoof is a simple procedure which can be a huge benefit in your horse’s hoofcare program. The Acrylic hoofwill stay on 6-8 weeks or longer. As I stated earlier it can be used on either barefoot or shod horseswith equal results. Let me know ifyou have had success with this procedure.

Laminitis and Corrective Shoeing

2008-07-02T15:58:00Z

Steve Samet with Daniel Montoya

When you suspect that your horse may be laminitic you should consult your equine veterinarian for a medical diagnosis. Your veterinarian will most likely order x-rays to confirm the diagnosis. The x-ray will determine the degree of rotation of the hoof. Your next step should be to have an examination done by your farrier to develop a plan of action for correcting the problem. I highly recommend that farriers work in conjunction with a veterinarian when dealing with a laminitic horse.

When I examine a horse for laminitis there are several things that I look for in determining the condition and its severity. First I look for the obvious signs, rocking back, bearing weight on the hind end, heat in the hoof, abnormal pulse rate, uneven coronary band, and the type of shoe the horse is wearing. I will also use my finger to run around the coronary band to check for abscess pits and soft pockets, and closely observe the coronary band for up and down disfigurement. Once I have determined that the horse is laminitic I will explain to the horse owner my course of action in bringing relief and correction to the affected hoof or hooves.

For this example the horse has been diagnosed with a laminitic front left foot. In this case I will begin treatment by wrapping both front legs with standing wraps to reduce pain and add needed support to the hooves. I will then pull the shoe on the affected hoof and examine it for alignment to the bony column. This is critical in determining how much adjustment must be made to get the hoof back into alignment. I will determine how much dead laminae to remove from the hoof capsule at this time. With the veterinarians assistance I will then proceed to trim the hoof to its bony column alignment. The balance and alignment must be accurate at this stage of the process to avoid prolonging recovery time. Next, to relieve pressure, I will dremel drill 20 or more holes into the hoof capsule. This will also aid in relaxing the hoof capsule. It is extremely important to not hit live tissue while drilling; this will cause infection and add to the soreness. I do not recommend grooving or resection of the hoof as the risk for infection is too high with these procedures. Now I will remove the existing dead hoof wall taking care not to cut into live tissue. At this point the hoof is prepared for shoeing.

I use HOOF-it composite shoes to support the bottom of the hoof capsule. This is a glue on shoe which does not create torque or pressure on the hoof as a nail on shoe does. It is important to not add further insult to the injured hoof. The composite shoe has several advantages over steel shoes. They allow for hoof expansion, act as a shock absorber, and promote blood flow in the hoof. The composite shoe also is excellent for medial, lateral, and posterior support. It also aids in supporting the coffin bone, long and short pasterns and the knee. The shock absorbing qualities also aid in giving relief and support to the deep flexor tendon and the suspensory tendon.

The hoof is now trimmed and balanced back into mechanical harmony. I rarely remove any sole in that the existing deterioration of the sole helps to stabilize the hoof rotation in most cases. Sometimes dead tissue is good support. I also do not remove the bubble at the point of the frog. I have found that this will typically self correct after rotation stops unless it is totally punched through. I size the shoe and make it symmetrical if possible. I roll the shoe 45 degrees all the way around to afford selective break-over. I do not recommend rolling the toe and heel only. This creates two movements, forward and backward, which causes the coffin bone to rotate downward. This motion causes heel and deep flexor soreness. I glue the shoe withHOOF-it Quick Shoe. This process takes 2-3 minutes with the acrylic drying in 60 seconds. The Quick Shoe is non-toxic, which is an advantage in hospital conditions. After the shoe is glued into place I cap the hoof capsule with HOOF-it acrylic to add further support to the hoof wall.

With the above procedure I have used judicious trimming and the composite shoe to bring the hoof back into load bearing functionality and mechanical harmony. The horse will experience pain relief from the laminitis as quickly as 48 hours. This procedure can be applied from 2 degrees to sinkers with excellent results. After shoeing, recheck hoof weekly to begin with, and gradually extend this period until hoof is healed. During this period check for new hoof tubular and hoof capsule growth. Also keep an eye on the coronary band for soft spots, and the hoof in general for infection. The drilled holes should disappear within a 6 week period as new growth takes hold. Complete hoof regeneration will take place between 6 months and one year, depending on the severity of the case. There is inherent soreness in the healing process. Your veterinarian will assist in pain management and vascular stimulation. In addition, it cannot be emphasized enough how important feed management is in the aftercare of the laminitic horse. The horse owner must take care to follow feeding instructions so that there is no regression.

I hope that the above has been helpful in explaining my process of working with the laminitic horse.

Quarter Crack Repair

2008-07-01T19:03:00Z

By Steve Samet with Daniel Montoya

The theory in the following procedure is to rebuild the hoof capsule using an acrylic compound and a composite shoe. In addition, drilling is done to create expansion holes which relax the hoof capsule and the distorted tubulars. This procedure allows the hoof capsule to return back to its mechanical harmony. I have found that this procedure also allows for the quickest healing times. In my experience I have found that if a stapling or stitching technique is used on the hoof it is often too stressful to the hoof capsule resulting in longer healing times. I have also found that using a patch puts the hoof out of balance, adding stress to the hoof capsule, and lengthening the healing process.

After I have diagnosed that I am dealing with a quarter crack I take the time to explain to the horse owner the process that I will be using. I also go over my recommendations for the best possible recovery of the horse. In addition, I request that a veterinarian be called in to assist with pain management and to prescribe antibiotics if necessary. It is always best to work in conjunction with a veterinarian in complex cases.

The first thing that I do when repairing a quarter crack is to dremmel tool the toe crack out. All drilling should be done under load because the hoof will be under maximum expansion. This gives you a realistic view of what the hoof will look like under loaded conditions. Drilling rejuvenates hoof growth in every case. I half moon the bottom of the cracked hoof wall to relieve pressure; taking care to not hit any live tissue. At the top of the crack I drill a single hole to keep the crack from advancing into the coronary band and to relieve pressure on the crack. If this is not done there is a very good chance that the crack will advance into the coronary band causing more problems down the road. I then drill four holes on each side of the quarter crack. These holes will act as stabilizing holes for the acrylic that I will treat the hoof with. I then drill up to twenty holes to act as expansion holes for the entire hoof. These holes will relax the hoof capsule and the bent tubulars giving relief to the horse.

Now that the hoof is prepped, it is time to apply the acrylic. In this case I am using HOOF-it Acrylic. I fill in the quarter crack, expansion, and stabilizing holes with the acrylic. This stabilizes the entire hoof capsule and helps to equalize the hoof from concussion and impact related to the normal movement of the horse. The application of the acrylic also assists in bringing the hoof back into mechanical harmony and helps in restoring normal growth to the hoof capsule.

Now it is time to put on the shoe. I recommend a composite shoe for this process. The composite shoe provides almost no torque to the hoof wall. In addition, the composite shoe aids in circulation and has tremendous shock absorbing qualities. A steel or aluminum shoe may be used, but I have found that the composite shoe leads to quicker healing. I cut out the composite shoe at the point of the quarter crack. This removes pressure at the toe of the crack. I typically take out half the thickness of the shoe. I never take this out of the foot itself, the tissue of the foot is excellent support and there is no reason to remove it for this procedure. I roll the shoe 45 degrees from the first nail hole on each side to assist in supporting the hoof capsule. I glue or use two nails to nail on the shoe to finish the job.

Recovery will depend on the level of infection that you are dealing with. It can be anywhere from seven days to six months. I like to apply betadine where the quarter crack is closest to the coronary band to help prevent infection. I recommend keeping the horse in hospital conditions until obvious signs of healing takes place. This is a good time to work in conjunction with your veterinarian.

About Steve

2008-06-30T18:54:15Z

Steve Samet began shoeing horses in the early 1970s in California. He moved to Nevada in late 1978 and soon developed a quality reputation for keeping performance horses sound; including reiners,hunter-jumpers, working Arabians and Quarter Horses. Steve has also trimmed many wild mustangs in Nevada for the Bureau of Land Management.

In 1984 Steve completed his farrier certification with the American Farrier Association. He then started a successful mentoring program, teaching new farriers the trade in one to three year programs via hands-on experience shoeing many different types of horses. Now his 12 apprentices are all full time farriers both in Nevada and California. The American Farriers Journal published a number of articles on Steve’s apprenticeship program.

In the 1980s, Steve traveled around the country for Mustad Inc. USA, demonstrating and conducting clinics on different applications with their Glu-Strider shoe. Steve also taught Farrier Science demonstrations for three years at the Pacific Coast Horse shoeing School in Sacramento, California.

In the mid 1990s, Steve became involved with HOOF-it® Technologies. Today he is Vice-President for Product Development and his responsibilities include testing and confirming products, product design and product improvement.

Steve has conducted HOOF-it® clinics in Germany, France, Italy, Mexico, Canada and all over the United States. He has worked on oxen in Nebraska, hunter-jumpers, reining horses in Germany and Italy, world class jumpers in Canada and roping horses in Mexico.